Tuscany Unfiltered: Volterra, San Gimignano & Bolgheri
Tucked away in the heart of Tuscany, Volterra is a serene escape from the crowds of its more famous neighbors. This charming hilltop town is one of the reasons we keep returning to Tuscany—it’s a place that truly captures the essence of the region. With its rich history, stunning views, and slower pace of life, Volterra feels like a timeless treasure waiting to be discovered.
Where to Stay
We stayed at Podere Ripi, a peaceful retreat about 20 minutes outside of Volterra. This remote spot, tucked away at the end of a narrow gravel road, offers complete tranquility, with only a couple of nearby buildings in sight. The property has just five rooms, and for most of our four-night stay, we had the place to ourselves. From the pool and terrace, we enjoyed spectacular views of the surrounding forest. The accommodation also offers a table tennis table and other games for fun, and our room came with basic cooking facilities. A communal barbecue area was also available for guests. If you’re looking for peace and seclusion, this is the perfect place.
Volterra
A Glimpse into History
Volterra’s origins date back over 3,000 years to the Etruscan civilization. One of the most striking landmarks is the Porta all'Arco, an ancient Etruscan gate that still stands proudly at the town’s entrance. As you wander through Volterra’s cobblestone streets, you’ll encounter medieval architecture, including the Roman Theatre and the Cathedral—both must-see sights for history lovers. Another highlight is Porta e Fonte di San Felice, where you’ll find an ancient gate, a church, and a staircase leading down to a peaceful fountain—a perfect spot for a quiet moment of reflection.
Stunning Views and Picturesque Streets
Perched on a hilltop and surrounded by thick stone walls, Volterra offers breathtaking views of the rolling hills, vineyards, and olive groves that define Tuscany’s landscape. For one of the best views, head to Punto Panoramico, located atop the town walls. From here, you can take in a sweeping panorama of the countryside—a view that never gets old.
Alabaster: Volterra's Signature Craft
Known for its high-quality alabaster, Volterra is home to numerous artisans who craft intricate sculptures from the soft stone. We visited Rossi Alabaster, an artisan workshop and showroom, where we marveled at the stunning sculptures on display. It’s an incredible experience to see these delicate works of art being created right before your eyes.
A Unique Way to Explore
For a truly unique experience, we rented a vintage Fiat 500 through Aperi Vintage and took a picnic drive through the Tuscan countryside. The 1.5-hour rental cost €120, and it was a memorable adventure. The manual car was a bit of a challenge, especially when starting on an uphill slope! But once we reached our picnic spot, nestled between olive trees, it was worth every bit of effort. The basket, packed with local wine and snacks, was the perfect touch for an idyllic afternoon. We booked the last session to catch the sunset, but driving back in the dark proved to be an adventure of its own!
Where to Eat
La Sosta del Priore is a small sandwich shop tucked away in a narrow alley near the main square, Piazza dei Priori. The sandwiches are made with top-quality local ingredients and are reasonably priced. We enjoyed it so much that we came back nearly every day. You can watch them prepare your meal as you wait, adding to the experience.
Just next door is Panificio F.Ili Rosetti, a fantastic bakery that offers freshly baked goods—perfect for a snack or breakfast.
How to get there
We drove from Germany, making a lunch stop in Florence. Volterra is just a 1.5-hour drive from Florence, and it’s also similar in distance to Pisa. Both cities offer easy access, so you can fly into either and rent a car for the drive to Volterra.
Where to Park
Parking in Volterra is located outside the town walls. We parked at Parcheggio Gioconova, which is conveniently close to the center of town. From there, it’s a short walk up the stairs and through a quirky tunnel to enter the historic heart of the town.
Wineries in the Region
Tuscany is famous for its wines, and we couldn’t leave without visiting a few local wineries. Monte Rosola was by far our favorite. Situated on top of a hill with panoramic views of vineyards and olive groves, this architectural masterpiece offered exceptional wine and service. We ended up purchasing a case of six bottles. Although it’s best to book a tour and tasting in advance (starting at €30 per person), we opted for a casual tasting for around €15, which was refundable when purchasing a bottle. Note that the winery often closes its gates, so you’ll need to ring the bell to be let in.
San Gimignano
Just a 40-minute drive from Volterra is San Gimignano, often called the ‘Medieval Manhattan’ for its 14 remaining medieval towers. The towers create a dramatic skyline that’s perfect for photography, offering interesting light and shadows even under the midday sun. If you’re up for a little workout, climb the Torre Grossa, the tallest tower, for jaw-dropping views. San Gimignano’s cobbled streets, centuries-old churches, artisan shops, and hidden piazzas make it feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
Bolgheri
From Volterra, it’s a short 1-hour drive to the picturesque village of Bolgheri, famous for its stunning Viale dei Cipressi—a road lined with over 2,000 cypress trees. The village is so small that you can’t drive into it, so we parked at Parcheggio a pagamento just outside and walked in. Bolgheri is renowned for its ‘Super Tuscan’ wines, blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese. Though we didn’t book ahead, we were still able to visit a few wineries, including Campo alla Sughera, Azienda Agricola Chiappini, and Castello di Bolgheri. All offer exceptional wines and a deep dive into the local winemaking culture.
For lunch, we stopped at Bolgheri Green, where we enjoyed a delicious three-course vegetarian meal made from ingredients straight from the restaurant’s organic garden. The outdoor seating under a pergola covered in vines made for a perfect, relaxing meal. Inside, the decor is unique, featuring dried plants and vegetables suspended from the ceiling.
Beach
From Bolgheri, it’s only a 15-minute drive to Spiaggia Libera Seggio 1, a quiet beach where we parked at Parcheggio II Seggio Dog Beach. After a short walk along the river inlet, we reached the sand, which is darker than most beaches in the area. We walked away from the restaurants to find a peaceful spot under umbrella-shaped trees, perfect for unwinding after our busy adventures.
Volterra and the surrounding Tuscan region offer a wealth of experiences—from charming towns and ancient history to scenic views and incredible food and wine. It’s an ideal destination for anyone seeking a quieter, more authentic side of Tuscany, away from the crowds yet full of beauty and charm.