Why We Fell in Love with Salzburg
Nestled between majestic alpine peaks and bisected by the gentle Salzach River, Salzburg is quite possibly the most beautiful city in Europe. With its baroque charm, rich cultural heritage, and breathtaking natural surrounds, it feels like something out of a fairytale. Whether you're here for Mozart, The Sound of Music, or simply to soak in the atmosphere, Salzburg is a city that delights at every turn.
A City of Music and Movies
Salzburg is synonymous with music. It’s the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and music quite literally fills the air—whether it's a street performer in a cobbled square or a grand concert in an ornate hall. You can visit both Mozart’s Geburtshaus (birthplace) and Wohnhaus (residence), which showcase fascinating personal artifacts and stories from his life.
Fans of The Sound of Music will also find themselves on hallowed ground. Many iconic filming locations are in and around Salzburg, from gardens and palaces to mountains and mansions:
Mirabell Gardens & Pegasus Fountain: Where Maria and the children sang "Do-Re-Mi".
Leopoldskron Palace: The lakeside exterior of the von Trapp family home.
Hellbrunn Palace: Home to the famous gazebo used in "Sixteen Going on Seventeen" and "Something Good".
Nonnberg Abbey: Where the real Maria was a novice and the movie's opening scenes were set.
Lake Wolfgang & St. Gilgen: Featured in the film's beautiful opening sequence.
Mondsee Cathedral: The picturesque church where the wedding scene was filmed
Hellbrunn Palace: Trick Fountains and Secret Surprises
About 5 km from Salzburg’s Old Town, Hellbrunn Palace makes for a delightful excursion. We cycled there along a scenic gravel path, flanked by rolling farmland and elegant villas. The palace grounds are home to the famous trick fountains—a playful water show that surprised us with jets shooting from unexpected places. I won’t spoil the fun, but let’s just say you'll want to keep your camera waterproofed.
A mechanical theatre, built in 1752, fascinated us with 142 moving figurines acting out professions of the time. Inside the palace, the rooms were filled with historical art and opulent décor. We ended with a short hike to a charming folklore museum overlooking the grounds.
Mirabell Palace and Gardens: Straight Out of a Fairytale
Back in the city, Mirabell Palace and its immaculate gardens are a dream to explore. Perfectly trimmed hedges, vibrant flower beds, and classical statues fill the space. Climb the garden steps for a postcard-perfect view of the gardens framed by Hohensalzburg Fortress in the background.
Although Marble Hall was roped off when we visited, we noticed a couple waiting outside dressed in traditional lederhosen and dirndl. They were getting married with no guests and they had no photographer so we offered to photograph their civil ceremony for free. The had a pianist playing Mozart pieces.
Hohensalzburg Fortress: History with a View
Towering above the Old Town is the iconic Hohensalzburg Fortress. We chose the funicular ride up (€12 return with the panorama ticket), but you can also hike up in about 20 minutes. The fortress offers panoramic views of Salzburg, informative museums, and medieval artifacts. You can choose between a basic (€15) or all-inclusive ticket (€18) depending on how many museums you’d like to explore.
After our visit, we dined at Restaurant Stiegl Keller at the base of the fortress. The upper terrace is reserved for drinks with a view; if you're after food, grab a table on the lower terrace. The Stiegl brewery itself—Stiegl Brauwelt—is just outside the city, as is Trumer Brewery, which we visited near Obertrumer See.
Mönchsberg: The Best Fortress Viewpoint
One of our favorite perspectives of Salzburg came from Mönchsberg, accessible by elevator next to the Museum of Modern Art (€3 one-way or €4.40 return). Alternatively, you can walk up from the staircase behind Café am Kai. From the top, the view over the fortress, river, and rooftops is simply unforgettable.
Cycling the Salzach: Hallein and Beyond
Salzburg is extremely bike-friendly, with dedicated paths lining both sides of the river. We pedaled south along the Salzach to the picturesque town of Hallein, nestled beneath a uniquely shaped mountain. The town has charming traditional buildings, and in summer, the market square buzzes with outdoor cafés.
On our return, we stopped for dinner at Landgasthof Rechenwirt, a cozy riverside inn known for its commitment to regional and organic ingredients—an unexpected gem just outside the city.
If you follow the river north instead, you’ll cross into Germany. The first town you’ll reach is Freilassing, where we stopped for delicious ice cream at Gelato Gelato and enjoyed a thin, crispy flammkuchen at Schmuggler’s.
Local Lakes and Leisure
On a warm day, Badesee Liefering Salzachseen is the perfect place for a swim. The water was surprisingly warm, and the lake features grassy relaxation areas, a floating barge to swim out to, and a simple snack bar called Imbiss. Volleyball courts and table tennis are available for those feeling active.
For a deeper lake escape, head to Wallersee. We enjoyed a lakeside meal of freshly caught river fish at Seehotel Winkler, followed by a swim from the opposite-side beach club with sauna, jetty, and changing rooms.
Maria Plain: A View Worth the Climb
One of Salzburg’s best-kept secrets is the viewpoint from Maria Plain. We cycled up a steep trail to the hilltop church and peaceful cemetery—where trees are planted in memory of loved ones instead of traditional gravestones. At the top, a large tree with circular benches offers the perfect picnic spot with sweeping views of the city and surrounding Alps. Downhill, the Maria Plain Gasthaus was buzzing with locals enjoying the sunshine on the outdoor terrace.
Carriage Rides and Cathedral Squares
At Residenzplatz, beside Salzburg Cathedral, we took a horse-drawn carriage ride through the old town. The horses appeared healthy and well cared for, working every second day on a rotating system. I sat up front with the friendly driver, who shared stories about the history of the buildings as we passed by. The ride began in the cool shade of the Cathedral, and after a short wait, we were paired with two elegant white horses—a truly memorable experience.
Where to Eat in Salzburg
Some of our favorite restaurants include:
Brandstätter Restaurant – A traditional spot loved by locals, a bit off the tourist trail.
Humboldt Bio-Restaurant – Delicious vegan and vegetarian meals in a peaceful old town corner.
Pauli Stubm – Rustic and lively, located in the former red-light district. Great for schnitzel, dumplings, and strudel, especially on a weekend evening.
Zwettler's Wirtshaus - A cosy, historic Salzburg tavern serving classic Austrian dishes and local beer in a traditional, welcoming atmosphere.
Coffee Culture and Sweet Treats
Salzburg has a vibrant café culture. Our top picks include:
Joseph Brot Salzburg Bio Bäckerei - Our favourite and most visited place from this list. It’s an organic bakery and café known for high-quality, artisanal bread and pastries.
Coffee Mozartsteg – A charming riverfront hut near the Mozartsteg Bridge. Great coffee, unbeatable views, and a peaceful place to watch the horses go by.
Kava Coffee Roasters – Trendy café just outside the old town with expertly brewed coffee.
Ma Makers Café – Minimalist, atmospheric spot tucked away on a quiet street. Our favourite place for coffee. Also have a small selection of delicious pastries.
Hotel Sacher – Famous for its decadent Sacher Torte. We enjoyed ours on the riverfront terrace overlooking the Salzach.
Café Bazar – A classic café next to Hotel Sacher, historically a favorite of artists and musicians.
Café Tomaselli – Austria’s oldest continuously operating traditional coffeehouse in Salzburg’s Old Town, beloved for its historic Viennese-style ambiance, classic coffee specialties and pastries, and lively people-watching atmosphere dating back to 1700.
Salzburg Marionette Theatre
Next to Mirabell Gardens is the enchanting Salzburg Marionette Theatre. We saw The Magic Flute, and it was an absolute delight — charming for both kids and adults. The craftsmanship of the puppets, the storytelling, and the special effects created a whimsical world that felt almost cinematic. The show lasted around three hours, with a short intermission midway.
We continue to come back to Salzburg and it is one of our favourite cities. We will continue to update this blog as we discover more of this magnificent city.